In a way, it was a classic: combining the indelible fifties inspiration of Lisa Fonssagrives, Dior mannequin and wife of Irving Penn, and that of the new model of French conservative chic, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy. Those two streams of thought merged into a collection John Galliano called “fresh couture—restrained and refined.” If it d...

Alexis Mabille is the new boy in Paris, stepping onto the runway during the couture season for the second time with a buzz and a glamorous audience (including the grand Italian couturier Simonetta, high-ranking friends from LVMH, and lots of pretty girls) around him. The ideas he showed were based, he said, on on the students, staff, and parents at...

Having recently seen Control, the biopic of Joy Division’s Ian Curtis, Rag & Bone’s Marcus Wainwright and David Neville were feeling slightly New Wave for Resort. However, any Debbie Harry references were subtly (and quite wearably) worked in—take, for example, a bright bateau-neck silk blouse and skinny black jeans, or terrif...

Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy has moved up to the point where he’s hitting the tricky balance that couture demands: developing recognizable signatures, on the one hand, and spinning fantasy, on the other. He had a theme for Fall—anticipating the trip to Peru he plans to take in August. That gave him a color scheme, from the tobacco browns ...

Who were the women Christian Lacroix sent out for Fall? Some sort of squadron of Ruritanian drum majorettes, marching along with their corseted, bejeweled jackets; leg-of-mutton sleeves; frothing tulle skirts; lace-veiled eyes; and jet-encrusted mohawks? Only a dull mind could ask for any literal explanation. An invitation to Lacroix’s coutur...

When showing in the Grand Palais—a soaring dome of a space capable of dwarfing an enormous audience and miniaturizing any runway—Karl Lagerfeld needs to exaggerate to make his theme carry. Thus, a 50-foot set is craned in to announce the season’s keynote: in this case, a vast multilevel stack of steel-gray tubes, suggesting organ ...

Haute couture—the supreme arena of fashion’s art—isn’t the place where you expect to see great designers trotting out old ideas, unless that is, something fabulously unforeseen comes out of them. That’s why Jean Paul Gaultier stumbled this season. He opened with an old equestrian joke (which he’s told many times ...

First steps on a couture runway are daunting for any young designer, especially if she’s following a master like Valentino. Alessandra Facchinetti carried it off with quiet grace and a point of view that promises to bring a breath of fresh air to the house. “I researched embroidery, looked at van Dyck and contemporary paper sculpture,&#...

There’s quite a debate about what “haute couture” means these days, but if it can be reduced to a synonym for “occasionwear,” then Elie Saab is the go-to designer, one who can be trusted to lay on a thorough service for his mainly Middle Eastern clients. Whatever the stated inspiration—in this case, the Sistine C...

Since he packed his bags and left Mulberry in London, Stuart Vevers has immersed himself fully in the culture of Loewe’s base camp, Madrid: learning to speak Spanish, how to eat at midnight, how to find his way around the nightlife, all that. He’s also approaching the job with full appreciation of the luxe leather-goods background of th...

Riccardo Tisci is a designer who likes to get mileage out of a theme once he’s found it. So far, he’s used a trip to South America to fuel his Fall ready-to-wear and haute couture shows, and he’s not stopping for Resort. No matter, though, because it’s here that the filtering of Latin American Catholicism and gaucho influenc...

“She’s a kid playing around with Hollywood glamour,” said John Galliano of the melee of bright, printed forties frocks and Gossip Girl styling he worked for Resort. The look: a lot of chiffon drapery in sugary apricot and mint, worn with vivid Ocean Drive palm-tree prints, footless tights, and multicolored wedges. His theme worke...

document.getElementById(”review-scroll-area”).getElementsByTagName(”span”)[0].innerHTML = “ROME, July 8, 2008 – “; Upon arriving at Gucci’s cruise show, it was hard to know where to look—at the acres of tanned skin, tawny hair, and jewel-colored dresses lining the runway, or at the seventies red...

Koi Suwannagate chose travel as inspiration for her sophomore Resort effort. As well worn a path as that might be, the light, feminine clothes she showed certainly seemed like the perfect thing to tuck into a little suitcase for a romantic getaway. Many pieces mixed Suwannagate’s signature cashmere with hand-dyed chiffon, and hand-sculpted fl...

Sophia Kokosalaki designed her debut Resort collection in the grips of Egyptomania. The result? An odd pyramidlike skirt (shaped with a wired hem) and plenty of the pleated numbers for which the Greek-born, London-based designer is known. While she indulged her obsession with drape, Kokosalaki didn’t neglect her tailoring skills. She rethough...

Former Spice Girl Melanie Chisholm has finally confirmed she is pregnant with Thomas Starr’s baby. She joyfully announced the happy news on her website, also explaining why they waited this long to respond to rumors and thanking everybody for their kindness and support. Well, I can now announce that Tom … ...

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Then do not CLICK HERE! saMAN Ronson has been turned into a Sims character. How sad when your fictional self is hotter than the real thing, and even the fake you is still fugs! ...

Click here to find out what the Limp Bizkit lead singer is up to these days! [....rest of the story....]...